The Search for Sustainable Fibre/Fabric Alternatives

THE SEARCH FOR SUSTAINABLE FIBRE/FABRIC ALTERNATIVES TEXTILE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT & ENGINEERING (MANU 2091) regard An attempt to find deuce alternate(a)s for cotton bot either grap heme wool and nylon respectively that is sustainable at heart the scope of the chosen preen BY PRIYA PISHU HASSARAM S3351376 LECTURER CHRIS WATSON 05TH SEPTEMBER 2012 MINOR ASSESSMENT REPORT EXECUTIVE SUMMARY This paper delves in to the motion characteristics of parts within chosen habit and the sustainable fill-ins for these types.In particular, the docu manpowert explores various questions relating to the subject including (1) what atomic number 18 the perfor humanityce characteristics for each character reference in general and chosen plume? , (2) how is it adequate as an alternative to the graphic symbol? , (3) In what ways ar the military operation characteristics of graphic symbols diverse from each some other? Today, we enkindle look at the model pers eerance through the lens of sustainability. At present, the textiles industry is integrity of the highest in contri aloneing towards landfill. The two most commonly use textiles fibres cotton and nylon both causes skillful environmental problems in their life cycle.Therefore, the report focuses on the aspect of sustainability within the fibre as replacements for cotton and nylon within the chosen app atomic number 18l. The work is divided into two parts, Part A addresses cotton and Part B addresses nylon. In specific a womens underwear is the chosen app bel for cotton and the two thinkable replacements for that harvesting atomic number 18 banana tree tree fibre and ganja. The replacement fibres be much comfortable, consent divulge breathability, wet absorbency, much small-scaleer in cost and 100% perishable in comparison to cotton which is all important(p) performance characteristics chartered for womens underwear being a sensitive piece of app bel.However, for nylon, the apparel a pply is an open-air(pre no.inal) mens capital. The sustainable alternatives for nylon are tencel and aero jelly. The replacement fibres are chosen because they are biodegradable, sustain a goodness level of lastingness, abrasion resistant and high in insulation properties all requirements for an outdoor diadem. The textile industry should adopt a responsible attitude towards the environment and immanent resources. Therefore, further instruction in sustainable production e exceptionally with fibres is highly recommended. These suggested replacements should be taken into consideration when producing apparel in the future.Support from all parts of the textile industry is necessitateed to build an eco-friendly and sustainable world. Table of Contents debut 1 PART A NATURAL FIBRE (COTTON) .. 2 cotton wool History/Background 2 like social organization and characteristics .. Properties 3 Advantages . 4 Disadvantages .. 4 Unique to cotton wool . CHOSEN APPAREL CHARACTERISTICS . 6 Womens Underwear 6 likes role in the chosen apparel Womens Underwear 7 second-stringer FIBRE FOR COTTON IN WOMENS UNDERWEAR 7 banana tree Fibre . banana tree fibre alternative for cotton in womens underwear .. 11 hackamore . 13 Hemp alternative for cotton in womens underwear . 15 resemblance surrounded by BANANA FIBRE AND HEMP WITH COTTON 16 PART B MANMADE FIBRE (NYLON) 7 Nylon social organisation & Characteristics . 17 Properties . 17 Advantages .. 18 Disadvantages 9 Unique to Nylon 19 CHOSEN APPAREL CHARACTERISTICS .. 20 outdoor(prenominal) tip .. 20 REPLACEMENT FIBRE FOR NYLON IN MENS OUTDOOR JACKET .. 21 Tencel 2 Tencel alternative for nylon in Mens Outdoor Jacket 23 Aerogel . 24 Aerogels alternative for nylon in Mens Outdoor Jacket .. 25 equivalence BETWEEN TENCEL FIBRE AND AEROGEL WITH NYLON 26 CONCLUSION .. 7 RECOMMENDATIONS . 28 REFERENCES 29 Books & journals .. 29 Websites .. 31 INTRODUCTIONWith increasing concerns regarding the effect the text ile industry is having on the environment, more and more textile investigateers, producers and fictionrs are looking to biodegradable and sustainable fibres as an in effect(p) way of reducing the harm disposed textiles gain on the environment. (Blackburn,2009) Therefore, the procedure of this work is to explore sustainability issues in fashion and textiles. It identifies the performance characteristics and discusses this from the perspective of the sustainable fibre or material alternatives for two major textiles in apparel cotton and nylon.The essay will be carried out in two parts. Part A will discuss the sustainable alternatives for cotton and Part B will discuss the sustainable alternatives for nylon. An apparel is chosen for each fibre respectively. For the cotton fibre, the apparel chosen is womens underwear and for the nylon fibre the apparel chosen is outdoor mens jacket. The replacement fibres that will be discussed are banana fibre and haltere for cotton while ten cel and aerogel as an alternative to nylon. In admission, a particular analysis of the performance characteristics will be done for each replacement fibres.Fol pitiableing to this, a comparison of the two replacement fibres against cotton and polyester will be done bearing in mind the environmental considerations. mend this report is somewhat specific types of apparel, it is relevant to anyone who is interested in taking action and cultivating change towards sustainability. The localise is to show that there are options of different ways in which we mass go most expression wide lasting environmental and social quality through the use of more sustainable fibres. 1PagePART A NATURAL FIBRE (COTTON) Cotton History/Background Cotton is the most prevalent persona in the world that has helped shape the history of the world by change state and protecting count little civilizations and adventurers from the set up of constitution. jibe to a recent article in textile world, cott on claims a 36- percentage share of the textile fibers market ( fabricworld, 2011). Cotton is gr feature in more than 100 countries in the world and valued at some $30 billion US dollars (Anandjiwala, 2007).Cotton requires a sunny environment with moderate rainfall and gnomish frost qualification the strength of growth in developing countries India, China, Pakistan as rise as demonstrable countries much(prenominal) as United States (Anandjiwala, 2007). Cotton is a ind sanitarying cellulosic fiber, comes from a renewable resource, and is intrinsically biodegradable. Therefore, many an(prenominal) consumers believe it is an environmentally responsible product (Chen & Burns, 2006). Renowned for its breathability, comfort, absorbent qualities, strength and versatility, which generate it the fiber of excerpt for numerous apparel articles plus bed sheets, towels and a couch of other textile products.This quality excessively enables cotton cloth to be dyed easily, fashioning it a innate(p) choice for designers. Cotton fabric is available in a plentitude of varieties, such as supremely soft and luxurious ocean Island and Pima cotton, rugged and long-wearing corduroy, industrial strength messvas, lightsomeness voile and organdy, as well as lustrous sateen and velvet. 2Page Cotton fabric is excessively a hugely popular choice for under apparels it subjectively wicks external wet while retaining breathability. Cotton does not require the maintenance like silk or other fabrics it does not need to be dry-cleaned and will not be ruined in a rainstorm.However, because the cotton fibers are so porous, shoplifting of the stuff and nonsense is a possibility. Cotton structure and characteristics Cotton is a natural cellulosic fibre, meaning that it is vegetable based. Of the vegetable based fibres, cotton female genitals be sub-categorized as a source-based fibre. This is because cotton fibres grow as hairs on the seed of the cotton constitute, Gossypi um (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). The fibre is a single kit and caboodle cell and the structure of the cell is complex (Hatch, 1993). The pod in which the fibres grow is known as a boll.When it reaches maturity (about the size of it of a walnut), it is harvested and processed. Cotton has a hard and stiff handle. Properties Cotton is considered a medium-strength fibre and becomes up to 30% quicker when wet (Kadolph, 2007). Cotton has low elasticity with an elongation capacity of 3% (Kadolph, 2007) Cotton has good moisture absorbency, with natural moisture content of 7% and 21% tightness forward moistness brook be felt (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). This means that static build-up is low (Kadolph, 2007). A high level of modify conduction in cotton permits heat energy to be drawn away from the fibres (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003).Cotton has good resistance to sunlight. any habilitate fading is usually due to the quality of the dyestuff and not the cotton fibre (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Cot ton is highly resistant to alkalis, though conversely, considerably weakened by acids, particularly strong, in extreme acids (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Organic solvents reserve no harmful effect (Collier, Bide & Tortora, 2009). 3Page Advantages Due to its increased strength when wet, it withstands rupture or ripping during laundering (Humphries, 2009) and other rough handling.Because of its inelastic nature, cotton articles should retain their shape (Gore & Vilensky, 2003). spirited moisture absorbency makes it suitable for use in gamy and humid climates. The moisture passes freely through the fabric, aiding drying up and cooling, qualification it highly comfortable (Kadolph, 2007). High heat conductivity allows wearers to feel cool in fond brave out. It in addition allows for voiced ironing with a calefactive iron. It is easily sterilised with steam, which has teensy effect on the fibre (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Due to high sunlight resistance, cotton items toilet be easil y dried in the sun.Because of its high resistance to alkalis, cotton git be easily washed due to the alkaline nature of soaps and detergents (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Disadvantages Low elongation capacity and elastic reclaimy means that if over- debauched, fibres whitethorn not beaty recover (Collier, Bide & Tortora, 2009), create them to go baggy (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). It mickle only recover 75% from a 2-5% stretch (Kadolph, 2007). Low resiliency as well as adds to the wrinkling and creasing nature of cotton garments. A weak internal force within the fibres means creates an inability to pull molecular chains abide into original positions (Kadolph, 2007) after(prenominal) pressure.High moisture absorbency causes cotton to be slow-drying. Cotton oxidises in sunlight, causing uncloudeds and pastel colours to turn yellow (Kadolph, 2007). Extended scene in the sun can weaken and deteriorate fabrics (Collier, Bide & Tortora, 2009). Some cotton articles can be susceptible to s hrinkage during washout. The agitation of the laundering process causes the fibres to pack in more c sustainly together. Because this is an permanent process, pre-shrunk fabrics can be bought and employ for cotton products (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). 4PageIn damp, warm and dark conditions, cotton can be prone to biological attack by mould and bacteria. This causes the fibres to weaken and can be destroyed by rotting. If caught early, it can be removed easily by laundering, though stains may persist (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). They may in addition be attacked by silverfish, particularly if they are heavily starched (Collier, Bide & Tortora, 2009). Unique to Cotton Cotton can undergo a chemical finish called mercerization, where sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or liquid ammonia (NH3) is utilize to treat the fibre.This causes a permanent physical change in which the fibres swell, changing its cross-section from kidney-shaped to a rounder, more circular one. This increases the absorbency and imp roves the dyeability of cotton yarns and fabrics (Kadolph, 2007). The new shape of the fibres give mercerised cotton a lucid soft lustre. 5Page CHOSEN APPAREL CHARACTERISTICS Womens Underwear Panties, regardless of the film editing and musical mode and the fabric they are make of, are basic items to be fix in a womans lingerie drawer.There are different kinds of panties out there and women do expect their preferences as to what type of panties to wear. Some women own different types to wear for different outfits and different occasions, while some opt for just one or two types and stick to them. find your proper panty fit requires companionship of two components waist beat and hip measurement. The hardest part about purchasing lingerie that fits well and looks good, is knowing what to look for. There are so many choices in fabric, style and size to choose from today.Therefore, the apparel chosen for this part of the study is womens underwear. In specific, one of the most com fortable womens underwear cotton French cut panty with 83% cotton/ 17% spandex, fabric content. There are no side seams making the panties extra comfortable. The French cut waistband resists the urge to bunch or fall down. It is likewise flatter hi cut legs for moderate front coverage. The french cut underwear rises to natural waistline providing full back coverage. 6Page Cottons role in the chosen apparel Womens Underwear The best fabric choice for panties for health reasons is cotton.The reason is that panties with a cotton crotch blow over more naturally. Cotton, not only allows for air circulation but also has good moisture absorbency with natural moisture content of 7% and 21% absorption before dampness can be felt (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003 and the remedy book). This means, perspiration is absorbed well making cotton is the best fabric choice for athletic activities. Cotton also has a soft and natural appearance as well has the wicking element persevereing your fight dry (An andjiwala, 2007). Cotton panties are often reasonably priced, last for a while and are comfortable.In addition to that, cotton has no tendency to provoke an allergic reaction as it is a non-allergenic fibre making it suitable for anyone to wear (Anandjiwala, 2007). Garments make out of cotton can be tossed in the washer with little worry because it withstands tearing or ripping during laundering (Humphries, 2009) and other rough handling. Cotton underwear with lycra or spandex entertains its shape the best. Many manufacturers now offer cotton panties in colors, prints and even dress them up with ribbons and lace. REPLACEMENT FIBRE FOR COTTON IN WOMENS UNDERWEARAs a product developer, answers to the questions below could help to demonstrate an sense of the characteristics unavoidable in the fibre replacements for a womens underwear. Will it be as comfortable in general and at the most important area of the panty which is the crotch? Can it conform to the proboscis lines withal no t restrain body movements? Will the replacement fibre compromise the fit of the underwear? Is there a change the requirements in wash care? Does the replacement fibre excite resistants to shrinkage? 7Page Can a fashion element be added to garment if the fibre has changed?What are the possible benefits of replacing cotton with another fibre? We ignore many wonderful natural products which have potentiality to become useful textile but were never tried seriously. Considering textile from natural resources the phthisis is increasing in such a galloping rate that even renewable resources are becoming nonrenewable. The manner of manufacturing textile in the modern era causes pollution to considerable extent. The composites containing plant fibres are important because of their renewable nature, low cost and amenability to chemical and mechanical modifications (Kiruthika, Priyadarzini & Veluraja, 2012).Manufacture of unreal fibres also causes pollution. For this reason, there is a need to search for non- ceremonious renewable resource for textile to give an effective solution. Plant fibers have been used for making paper and clothing for a long time and the need for use of natural fibres has increased greatly. Among natural fibres, 90 per cent are of vegetable origin and among them 80 per cent is constituted by cotton and the remaining by other long vegetable fibres like flax, jute, ganja, sisal, ramie, coir, abaca, banana and pineapple fibres.They are categorize as minor fibres (Kiruthika, Priyadarzini & Veluraja, 2012). However, this study will demonstrate two of the major fibres banana fibre and hemp as an alternative to cotton in womens underwear. 8Page banana tree Fibre The bananas or the plantains are essentially hot climate plants. Their original home is said to be the equatorial forests of Asia. The plant gives fibre for manufacturing textiles, its leaves are used as plates to serve food besides of contour many medicinal virtues in India. The plant gr ows easily of its own as it sets young shoots.All varieties of banana trees bristle in fibres. In fact almost each and e real part of this plant gives fibres of various strength, colour, knockout and staple length thus, can be used for various purposes. In the leaf sheaths, coarse and strong fibres are found on the outer ones, all right and silky in the inner most ones and those of the intermediate quality in the intermediate ones The core, from the roots to the point of its emergence from the covering of the false stem contains an super white fine fibre, soft, lustrous and can be processed on jute machinery (Chand, Tiwary & Rohatgi, 1988).The fruit stems contain fibres of a rough commixture, while the midribs of the leaves restoration a fibre of exceptional strength and durability when properly processed. single cells in banana fibres are relatively longer and therefrom these sources can produce long fibres (Reddy & Yang, 2005). 9Page The outer sheaths produce the coarsest fibre. real often they are in truth(prenominal) brittle and break at the slightest jerk. The practice is to reject two or ternion of the outer sheaths. The innermost two or three of the sheaths are also rejected because of the percentage of pulpy matter they contain.Only the intermediate sheaths are ill-used for the purpose of fibres (Kulkarni, 1983). About 37 kg (average weight) of stem yields about 1 kg of good quality fibre. The yield is about 1-1. 5% of dry fibre. The fibre obtained from the central core is of lower quality. The fresh banana plant yields about 0. 61. 0% of fibre, depending on the variety and method of extraction used. The low cost mechanical cheat can extract 15 to 20 kg of fibre from the banana waste as compared to euchre g a day by the laborious manual process (Kiruthika, Priyadarzini & Veluraja, 2012).The inherent drawback of banana fibre is its poor quality and higher irregularity, owing to the multi-cellular nature of the fibres. The individual cells are cemented with lignin and hemicellulose and thus form a composite fibre. banana tree fibre is classified as medium quality fibre and performs very well in combination with other fibres for making fine articles like handicrafts, currency, etc (The Hindu, 2011). The stronger fibres are ideal for cordages while the weaker white inner fibres are best suited for value added accept items.They are being produced and exported in India from Kerala and is suitable for manufacturing strings, ropes, cords, cables and ship building thread (Kulkarni, AG, Satyanarayana, Rohatgi & Vijayan,1983). It can also be used to make sacks and packing fabrics as well as mats and rugs. Due to high cellulose and low lignin content, its use in the paper industry to make tissue, filters, specialty nonwoven, document, printing, surgical and hygienic applications, coffee bags, meat casings and more(Kulkarni, AG, Satyanarayana, Rohatgi & Vijayan,1983). Banana Fibre can be used as fibre to manufacture fabrics.It is being used for making bags, table mats, ropes and twines (The Hindu, 2011). The fibre can be powdered and different colours of fibre obtained using natural dyes, which can be made into splendid pictures. It can be intermix 10 P a g e with other natural fibres or synthetic fibres without any problem to produce large varieties of garments from this fibre. It has good strength and has silk like gleam (AsiaPulse News, 25 Aug 2008). It can partly replace cotton fibre and hence we can estimate potential for it on the line of estimating demand for cotton fibre.It may be noted that good quality Banana fibre is having strength and luster like silk and in the Philippines various garments are already manufactured from Banana fibres (AsiaPulse News, 25 Aug 2008). Apart from it, Philippines is exporting huge quantity of readymade garments like shirts, kimonos, gowns, nightwear and more. The banana fibres were reported to be elegant and highly versatile. As they do not crumple easily, thes e fibres have been used in the manufacture of dress materials. The fineness of texture depends on the quality of the fibre used.The material has a beautiful splendour and is used for making wedding gowns and barongs. Hand-extracted fibres have been used to produce handbags, wall hangings, table mats and other fancy articles. The composite material prepared by using banana fibres is purely biodegradable, renewable, non-toxic and potential user-friendly material (Kiruthika, Priyadarzini & Veluraja, 2012). Banana fibre alternative for cotton in womens underwear The benefits of wearing banana fibre underwear go beyond the comfort of the fibre.Banana fibre has other fantastic and amazing properties not found in other fabrics. Banana fibre characteristically enjoys good luster, is lightweight and offers strong moisture absorption which are all necessary performance characteristics unavoidable in underwear. Besides that, the banana fibre is a wholly natural fabric, being made from the bark of the banana plant. Also, banana, being a relatively easy fiber to spin, provides the soft, smooth and extremely comfortable result people have come to expect from fall quality underwear brands. 1 P a g e In fact banana fibre has come to be recognized as one of the most comfortable eco friendly fibres ever made, setting the standard high for sustainable fabrics. Since banana fibre is fully origin natural product, it has very good compatibility with other natural fibres like cotton, coir, pineapple fibres and jute in blending (Fibre to fashion, 2009). Banana fibres are naturally hypoallergenic and is pesticide free making it the perfect solution for anyone with sensitive, or allergy prone skin.It can be blended with cotton or viscose fibre to produce blended fabric. Banana fibre can also be dyed easily like other natural fibres and cloth made from it can also be dyed and printed like cotton cloth. They do not shrink and the colour doesnt fade after a wash (Times of India, 23 May 2009). It also has exceptional strength and durability when properly processed. The banana fibre also plays a major role in environmental and economic sustainability as it is biodegradable the textiles are produce from the waste of the plant and do not require much effort to grow. Dr.Rajan P Nachane, Principle Scientist and Head, Quality Evaluation & Improvement Division of Central Institute for Research on Cotton Technology, says, Being completely biodegradable and naturally occurring, the banana fibre products are expected to be in great demand in the international markets as they pose no toxic effects to man and the environment (Fibre to port, 2009). Recently in 2010, an Australian brand by the name of AussieBum has been the first brand to have used banana fibre in mens underwear therefore it can be used for womens underwear as well (PR Newswire, 2010).There are many countries now venturing in to banana fibre to manufacture textiles including India, Japan, Africa and China. 12 P a g e Aussiebum Advertisement for banana fibre underwear for men Hemp Hemp fiber has been used by mankind to make textiles dating back to the stone age, defined by Shultes in 1970 as a green, very abundant and ubiquitous plant, stintingly valuable and possibly dangerous (Mussig, Jorg Stevens, Christian, 2010).While the fiber is one of the most valuable parts of the hemp plant ,commonly referred to as Bast used in the creation of textiles, industrial hemp has a wide range of uses including to paper, cordage, bio-fuel, health food and biodegradable plastics. 13 P a g e Unlike cotton, hemp requires virtually no chemicals like pesticides, herbicides (Miraftab et al, 2007). It is can be grown practically anywhere from northern latitudes to tropical climates and is naturally resistant to most pests and grows very densely (Mussig, Jorg Stevens, Christian, 2010).From a cost perspective, hemp is less valuable to farm because of its minimal growth requirements. The valuable bast fibe rs, which give the plant its strength, are contained within the core out timber-like core of the plants stalk under the outer most bark and runs the length of the plant anywhere from 3 to 15 ft long (Kadolph, 2010). The primary fibers average 8 in length and can be spun or woven into a fine linen-like type fabric. These fibers are now commonly blended with other fibers such as flax, cotton, wool, linen or silk. Hemp can be weaved as intricately as lace, smooth as silk or as coarse as burlap (Global Hemp, 2000).Modern hemp blends created today for the garment industry are cool to touch and comfortable to wear. While hemp garments are often relatively more expensive than those made from cotton due to higher processing costs and limited quantities, its transcendency is clear. oneness of the most commonly known attributes about hemp fiber is its exceptional tensile strength (Anandjiwala, 2007). In addition, the fiber is naturally antimicrobial and resistant to ultraviolet light as well as mold, mildew, heat and insects which makes it excellent for outdoor wear.The fiber is not only many quantify more durable than cotton but warmer, softer and more water absorbent. This also makes hemp more absorbent to dyes and thus less prone to fading. Hemp garments can be dyed or left in a natural state, which means no dye at all. When left un-dyed, garments come in varying shades of ecru which is the natural color of the hemp fibers after processing. The primary countries supplying hemp to the US include China, Hungary, Thailand, Romania and chilly with production coming from other nations including Australia, England, Canada and New Zealand as well. 4 P a g e Hemp alternative for cotton in womens underwear The advantages of hemp as a replacement for womens cotton underwear are numerous. Hemps fibers are longer and stronger than cotton, each hemp fiber is a foot long or greater, compared to two to four inches for the best cotton fibers. Whats more, hemp fibers are ho llow like linen, which means that it breathes and cools as well as linen and better than cotton, yet is more durable and stronger than cotton which fits the bill as performance characteristic required in underwear.Moreover, fabrics made from hemp do not compromise human health or the environment in their production as it requires far less water, fertilizer and pesticides than cotton to grow. Besides that, hemp has excellent insulating properties that keep you warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Hemp fibers actually soften with each washing without fiber degradation, hence a longer wash care life cycle. Hemp production uses significantly less chemicals than cotton which makes it more sustainable and naturally more suitable for people with chemical sensitivities.The fiber is completely biodegradable, holds its shape as good as polyester but also has breathability. Eco-friendly methods of both dyeing and goal have been developed for this fibre as well. Famous Levi Strauss use d a light weight hemp canvas for its original pair of jeans. Since that time, hemp has been used to make many types of garments and accessories. Big names such as Patagonia, Adidas, Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani and Ralph Lauren have recently marketed products made from hemp. Hemp is a miraculous fibre, it is a sustainable, easily renewable resource and is used for food, clothing, energy and more (Miraftab et al, 2007). 5 P a g e COMPARISON BETWEEN BANANA FIBRE AND HEMP WITH COTTON Properties Fibre Length gracefulness Handle attitude Wrinkle recovery Drape Luster Moisture absorbency Thermal properties Wash care constancy world-wide durability General comfort Breathability Non-allergenic Relative cost Biodegradability Cultivation properties Water wasting disease Harvest frequency Cotton Short staple fibre Banana Fibre Hemp Medium to very long staple fibre real fine to coarse Very soft to medium, cool voiceless to Very Strong Poor to neat Fair Poor Very straightforward Very grave Very near Good Good minute Yes Low resplendent degradationMedium to long staple fibre Fine Fine to coarse Medium to hard, Soft to medium, cool cool Strong to Very Strong Strong Poor Poor to Fair Poor Good Poor Good Good Good Fair Good Good Good Yes Low Slow degradation Very Good Good Good Good Good glorious Yes Low Excellent degradation High Once a class Low As many throughout year Almost none Requires humidity Low times the Twice a year Almost none Can be grown under any weather conditions Makes the soil fertile and cultivable for other harvest times 16 P a g e Chemicals and High Pesticides Growing conditions Requires humidityAffects on land No crop rotation of growth No crop rotation PART B MANMADE FIBRE (NYLON) Nylon Structure & Characteristics Nylon is a man-made fibre, made from synthetic polymers. It is also known as polyamide because it belongs to the family of amide compounds (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). It is melt-spun. Nylon is available in multifilament, monofil ament, staple and tow (untwisted bundle) varieties. Nylon fibres are transparent unless they have been delustred or dyed (Kadolph, 2007). Nylon gives a medium to hard handle (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003).Properties Nylon has excellent strength, though it may lose up to 20% strength when wet, though this usually has no effect on garments as the fibre is so strong. It could be considered one of the strongest fibres (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003, Kadolph, 2007). Nylon has excellent abrasion resistance. Nylon has high elastic recovery and high elongation. It can fully recover from an 8% stretch, and 91% from a 16% stretch, immediately (Kadolph, 2007). Whilst having the highest moisture absorbency of the synthetic fibres, it is not very hydrophobic. It has natural moisture content between 2. -5%, and can absorb up to 7% before feeling damp (Kadolph, 2007, Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Nylon is an insulator of heat. 17 P a g e Nylon is an incredibly light fibre (Kadolph, 2007). Nylon is resistant to alkali s though may yellow with repeated exposure. Nylon is not resistant to acids (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Resistance to sunlight is fair to good but prolonged exposure to sunlight is not advisable as it can weaken fibres. Nylon is resistant to biological attack by insects and fungi, though food soil on carpets may attract insects, and fungal growth may appear on soiled articles in humid conditions (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003, Kadolph, 2007).Advantages Excellent abrasion resistance allows nylon articles to be durable and resilient, and resistant to pilling, shedding, fading, abrasion, soil and stains. High elasticity and elongation of nylon allow it to have very good wrinkle recovery, making it an excellent fibre for hosiery type uses. It also adds to minimise the appearance of bagginess or excessive garment distortion (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). It also has contributes utility in carpets where fibres need to spring back after compression, meaning traffic paths do not develop quickly (Kadolph, 20 07).Its low moisture absorbency allows nylon garments to be quick drying. Slight wrinkles in garments disappear on wearing from body heat (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Nylon can be heat-set due to its thermoplastic nature, meaning permanent pleats, creases and embossed designs can be made (Kadolph, 2007). Heat-setting and the low-absorbency of nylon means that shrinkage is low (Kadolph, 2007). The lightness of nylon combined with its strength, makes nylon an appropriate fibre for action wear and sports slant (Kadolph, 2007).Alkaline resistance leads to easy-care of the garments (Kadolph, 2007). Nylon is dry-cleanable (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). 18 P a g e Disadvantages Low moisture absorbency means that nylon can become transparent when wet (with perspiration), and clammy in warm, humid conditions (Kadolph, 2007), making it uncomfortable to wear unless indistinct over an absorbent-fibred article. It also means that static electricity is readily generated (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Prolonge d laundering above hot temperatures and repeated ironing can yellow nylon (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003).One must take care when laundering under hot temperatures as nylons heat-setting ability can manifest permanent wrinkles which are impossible to remove without causing some fabric distortion (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Nylons low resistance to acids can cause yellowing due to declination and dulling of colour. This can occur from industrial air pollution or from perspiration. Bleaching accelerates yellowing in nylon (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Unique to Nylon During spinning, different shapes can be extruded through the spinneret, giving nylon fibres different, sometimes more natural, qualities.The regular cross-section shape of nylon is round. Non-round fibres (such as trilobal, pentalobal and voided fibres) are used generally for upholstery and carpets as round fibres reveal soil and look dirty very quickly, therefore giving products a clean look, even if soiled. This is because non-round shapes are able to scatter the light to hide soil, and also duplicates the matte luster of wool and other natural fibres (Kadolph, 2007). 19 P a g e CHOSEN APPAREL CHARACTERISTICS Outdoor Jacket Outdoor Jackets, is generally an apparel to be found in a mans wardrobe especially in cool climate countries or those who are active in sports.There are different kinds of outdoor jackets out there for different purposes. Some men do have their preferences as to what type of jackets to wear. Some men own different types jackets to wear for different purposes, while some opt for just one or two types of common ones and stick to them. Determining the correct outdoor jacket requires some knowledge regarding fabrics and apparel accessories for different weather conditions and sports. The hardest part about purchasing an outdoor jacket is getting the right kind of jacket for the right purpose without perturbing about the elements during the sport or weather condition.There are so many choices i n fabric, style and size to choose from today. Therefore, the apparel chosen for this part of the study is mens outdoor jacket. In specific, one of the most common multipurpose mens outdoor jacket consisting of 100% nylon fabric content. The jacket has a thermal reflective lining that boosts your bodys heat retention 20 P a g e keeping you warm. It comes complete with an adjustable storm hood, draw cord hem and venting zips, making it perfect for outdoor adventures in adverse conditions.REPLACEMENT FIBRE FOR NYLON IN MENS OUTDOOR JACKET Nylon is used in this apparel as it is an exceptionally strong material, with low-absorbency and elastic characteristics. It can be dyed easily and is simple to wash, a big plus for outdoor wear. This resilient fabric is very typical in the outerwear market again, despite its many benefits, a supplementary masking is often added to nylon fabrics to increase their protective capabilities. Like polyester, nylon is woven into different material weight s, which is indicated by a hazard measurement (ie. 80g polyester).The waterproof/breathability rating issued by the manufacturer is the easiest way to determine whether a particular jacket will work under your desired conditions (Kadolph, 2010). It has some level of water-resistance. To ensure that there arent even the slightest holes made by stitching the fabric together, manufacturers usually seal the seams of the garments to interdict any moisture from creeping in to the most exposed areas of the garment the shoulders, arms and side seams on jackets. Critically taped seams are good enough under most conditions, though fully taped seams will offer the highest amount of tribute to the earer under the foulest conditions. Windproof or wind-resistant fabrics are made by weaving the fibers of the material extra tightly to prevent wind from penetrating the garment and reaching the wearer (Lyle,1982). 21 P a g e Tencel Tencel is a natural, manmade fibre made from eucalyptus wood pulp from sustainable tree farms, which is also referred to as lyocell The wood pulp is processed in a non? toxic organic solvent solution that is reclaimed and recycled in a closed? loop spinning process that conserves energy and water. Up to 99 percent of the solvent is recovered and reused (Kadolph, 2010).Furthermore, the process by which the fibers are made into fabric is environment friendly, 100% biodegradable. Tencel fabric is an astonishing eco friendly fabric making the landmark in the development of environmentally sustainable textiles. Tencel textiles are created though the use of nanotechnology in an award-winning closed-loop process that recovers or decomposes all solvents and emissions (Mak et al, 2006). The advantage of Tencel clothing is the variety and exceptional comfort you can experience. The main benefit of clothing made from this unique fabric is the moisture and temperature control it offers to the wearer.Wood pulp is naturally designed to absorb moisture for the trees survival the fibers that are made into cloth do the same. Furthermore, these versatile Tencel fibers blend well with other fibers such as wool and cotton to create textiles more durable, soft, and moisture controlling than man-made fibers. Tencel clothing provides maximum comfort whether at bottom or outdoors. Tencel is an especially smooth fiber, and has softness comparable to cotton and silk. 22 P a g e The nanofibrils can also be altered to create fabrics that feel like suede, silk, denim, or as though they had been treated for a peach-skin finish (Mak et al, 2006).Tencel alternative for nylon in Mens Outdoor Jacket There are many benefits of Tencel as a replacement for mens outdoor jacket. According to recent dermatological studies, wearing clothing made of Tencel significantly improves comfort and promotes a feeling of well being (Diepgen, 2004). Also, Tencel is chemical free, an important factor for sensitive skin and people with allergies. The fabric pulls moisture nowadays from the skin and releases it into the air. Synthetic materials such as nylon do not take in moisture at all, but leave a film on the skins muster up. Sports and outdoor textiles of 100% synthetic fibers can lead to higher skin and body temperatures and thus to a reduction in the athletes performance. (Lenzing website). While cotton absorbs moisture, Tencel is 1 ? times as absorbent. Moreover, it fibrillates during wet processing to produce special textures (Kadolph, 2010). Cotton and nylon can both leave moisture on the skin in humid weather however Tencel does not, ensuring that bacteria will never get a chance to form between the fabric and the skin (Schuster et al, 2006). This makes Tencel a truly safe fabric for all skin types and even for babies.The fiber is economical in its use of energy and natural resources, and is fully biodegradable. The use of Tencel improves the thermal insulation of outdoor clothing (Lenzing website). The heat loss experienced in a cold en vironment is much lower in the side with Tencel than in the side containing only polyester or nylon which is a good performance characteristic needed for outdoor jackets. Waddings of Tencel can be warmer than those of polyester even with the same thickness. This gives more options in terms of garment styling, freedom of movement, as well as optimum wear comfort (Schuster et al, 2006). 3 P a g e Aerogel Aerogel has exceptional physical properties such as extremely low thermal conductivity, low sound speeds, low dielectric constant and high optical transparency, which make its materials highly suitable for a wide variety of applications such as thermal insulation for extreme weather gear, space suits, cryogenic pipes, space shuttles and more (Technical Apparel, 2005). Aerogels belong to a fascinating class of nanoporous materials derived by sol-gel technique which possess sophisticated potentialities for a range of applications (Fricke, 1986). The term aerogel is composed of air and gel.A gel consists of two components, a gel scaffold and a filling medium. In case of the aerogel, the filler is simply air. Aerogel is manufactured by exquisitely removing the liquid from a silica alcogel by super-critical drying, replacing it with nothing but air, which makes up 99. 8% of the last product Some aerogels have a density as low as 0. 001 grams per cubic atomic number 96 (Thermablok website). Aerogels are characterized by exceptional physical properties such as extremely low thermal conductivity and weight, low sound speeds, low dielectric constant and high optical transparency (Fricke, 1986). High surface area porous materials from aerogels are of great importance especially as catalyst, catalyst supports, thermal insulators, sensors, filters, electrodes and burner materials (Hermann et al,1995). Aerogels unique properties can be extremely helpful in designing flexible and lightweight insulation materials from textiles. The mesmeric energy absorbing properties of aerogels may lead to their use in various applications. 24 P a g e Aerogels alternative for nylon in Mens Outdoor Jacket There are many advantages of using Aerogels as a replacement for mens outdoor jacket.Aerogel has the highest insulating performance, therefore can be used for the development of wide variety novel high performance products such as outdoor jackets (Thermablok website). It is a good property to have for protection from extreme cold weather conditions and keep the body warm. Aerogel is also has minimum weight and thickness allowing flexibility in fashion and design options. One of the extraordinary properties that he discovered was their very low thermal conductivity (Aerogel website). Aerogel also is a very durable fibre and can be washed in normal wash cycle and maintains performance under load. It is strong and flexible for emanding outdoor conditions (Hermann et al, 1995). The production and use of silica aerogels is environmentally benign. No significantly v iolent wastes are produced during their production. The disposal of silica aerogels is perfectly natural. In the environment, they quickly crush into a fine powder that is essentially identical to one of the most common substances on Earth, namely, sand. Additionally, silica aerogels are completely non-toxic and non-flammable. If they eventually find their way into widespread use as protective materials, they could eliminate a very large amount of unwanted plastic materials (Aerogel website). 5 P a g e COMPARISON BETWEEN TENCEL FIBRE AND AEROGEL WITH NYLON Properties Strength Abrasion Moisture absorbency Insulation properties Thermal properties Wash care stability General durability General comfort Breathability Non-allergenic Biodegradability Nylon Good Resistant Poor Good Low Good Good Poor Fair No Not biodegradable Tencel Good Resistant Poor Good Moderate Fair Good Excellent Good Yes Aerogel Very good Resistant Poor Excellent Low Very good Excellent Excellent Good No Excellent d egradation Excellent degradation 6 P a g e CONCLUSION Man has always exploited the resources available to improve or develop their clothing. However, this report provides a new view to alternative textiles and the elicit breakthroughs that were made in creating fibres that not only have the performance characteristics but also to be more sustainable and environmentally sound. Throughout the report, compelling ideas of replacement fibres are suggested working towards a new fashion ethic. Fibres are a critical component in textiles.An increasing interest has develop recently about the raw materials sourcing and production by the consumers, brands and retailers. It covers all aspects from water consumption, land usage and relative environmental impact. Sustainability is a global megatrend an essential attribute of todays textile and clothing industry. Knowledge, skills and commitment are required in the process of transforming textile industry into more sustainable one. Use of Sustai nable fibres in textiles is a part of this process and a feel towards this milestone.Fibres like cotton and nylon fibres have a high consumption in energy and environment as well as landfill. Therefore, alternative options of fibres should be considered to incorporate issues that link up to sustainability. Fibers suggested in the report such as banana fibre, hemp, tencel and aerogel are good for the planet because it is low in environmental impact. Some of the fibres have better performance characteristics than cotton and nylon. The damage which takes place during some of step for production of textiles for the apparel industry has also been discussed in the report.The use of these fibres in the apparel industry is sort of limited. However, these fibres have potential to be used in fashion apparel and also other industries. Fashion is the name of change and change is the part of life. Peoples desires and needs have no limits and companies are continuously striving to fulfill the consumer needs. Many fashion companies are working on this platform from hundreds of years, but technology and innovations change the company thinking and also surroundings change the people trends and 27 P a g e arieties of products born in comparison to both changes. Consumers are becoming aware(p) of sustainable concerns and want sustainable products that work for environment. Many fashion companies are still working with conventional cotton products and making a lot of fashion products with multiple designs and colors. But these things are not practicable for a long time. Customers are becoming aware day by day and want products that are good for their skin and bring comfort for them. And this learning makes customer aware about harmful and hazardous products they are using in their daily life.The future of textile industry will depend on the products that have reduced environmental and social burdens during their entire product life cycle. A part of this is the entering of sustainable materials that will reduce these impacts during their growth and processing. And this report will provide fashion companies good knowledge of sustainable fibers (the raw material for their products) and brief description about their properties to support the use of these fibers in their product that will serve the society as well as environment. RECOMMENDATIONS 1.The report is an option for textile companies or retailers to consider options available to them to make informed decisions on alternative fibre choices for the selected apparel. 2. Some of the alternative fibres have new and unique elements that can be beneficial in the terms of design, fashion and functionability that can be considered 3. Textile companies or retailers as well as brands are only focusing on creating ecofriendly textiles with organic cotton or wool and not other replacement fibres that could be more environment friendly, it is recommended that companies research further on it 4.The banana fibre is a fibre that has not been experimented in many countries yet it cost effective and eco friendly, it is recommended that companies could look in to growing banana fibre to increase the natural sustainable plant 5. The fibres suggested will help fashion companies to diversify their businesses 28 P a g e REFERENCES Books & Journals Anandjiwala, R. D. , (2007) Textiles For Sustainable Development, Nova Science Publishers, Incorporated. Blackburn, R. S. 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